Sleeping Beauty's Castle: Neuschwanstein

Taking a two hour bus ride to Bavaria, our tour group was led by Mike. Mike was from Minnesota but had married a German girl and had been living in Munich for 9 1\2 years. Having visited Neuschwanstein multiple times, I honestly wish we could have had a bit more enthusiastic tour guide. After all, we had been spoiled with Alun and Keith on our two previous tours. 

Arriving in the small village where Neuschwanstein resides, the Alps could been seen all around us. The castle sat nestled in the mountain, standing tall with its high peaks and white, limestone walls. Before making the trip up the large hill to the castle, we arrived around lunchtime. Opting to take Mike's suggestion and eat at his friend's small place, mom and I consumed a delicious bratwurst sandwich, complete with french fries and a refreshing coke. 

Given only thirty minutes for lunch, we met back up with the group to wait for the bus ride, which took us 3\4 of the way up to the castle. Grateful for the opportunity to ride a bus, the other option was to pay 6 euros per person for a carriage ride  or walk. Now, even for the most fit, this would have been exhausting. The looks on the faces of those climbing the hill looked as if they might pass out or throw up the white flag. 

Although it didn't take us all the way up to the castle, it dropped us off only 1 minute away from the bridge that Ludwig built for Mary, his mother. I never realized my sincere fear of bridges until I stepped onto Mary's bridge. Although the metal felt sturdy, the wooden planks did not. Overlooking the wooded area, beneath us lie water...not exactly what anyone wants to see when feeling uneasy about the bridge they are standing on. 

Informed that I had nothing to worry about, it didn't ease my mind as I stood there and looked down to see that I could see between the planks, as well as feel the planks give just enough with each step.  Quickly handing over the camera to a fellow tourist, we snapped a few photos with Neuschwanstein in the background before I hightailed it off the bridge as fast as possible.

Feeling much more comfortable on solid ground, we began our ascend to the castle. Snapping photos left and right inside the courtyard area, we had to wait until our scheduled tour time to enter. As unfortunate as it was, we were unable to take photos inside the castle; however, the interior was filled with murals from various legends and myths, including: Tristan & Isolde, legend of the Holy Grail, and more. Each room was comprised of ornate woods and brass. King Ludwig was very interested in current technology and gadgets, hence the up-to-date kitchen for its time with a rotisserie, and copper pots and pans. 

Upon exiting the castle, the only way down was to walk, and the descent was enough to tire anyone out. Managing to make time to talk more with Mike, I still was not impressed by his demeanor. Everything we asked about, he played down. He was an odd duck as I would call him. 

Stopping at a small cafe, we had an hour before we needed to leave this quant, little village. Eager to get off our feet, we each enjoyed a latte macchiato, an apple streudel, and a strawberry marmalade mini pie.  The pastries were delectable, savory, and sweet...exactly what we needed. 

Many people believe that Cinderella's castle is modeled after Neuschwanstein, but it is actually Sleeping Beauty's castle at Disneyland. Stepping inside and taking a tour, you certainly felt as if you were in a fairytale. 

Beer Flows at Hofbrauhaus

After our trip to Dachau, it was obvious that we needed an evening of uplifting fun and enjoyment. Opting to take advantage of being in Munich, we did one of the most touristy things you can do -- visit the Hofbrauhaus. 

Walking in, we were met with extreme heat due to the massive amount of people inside. Each table was full of beer drinking, sausage eating people, each with a smile on their face. Beers raised high above ones head, a German orchestra played while visitors cheered and sang loud and proud. I laughed at the hilarity of it all. 

Lucky enough, we were approached by a couple from San Francisco who asked if we would like to join them. Eagerly taken them up on their offer, we sat down and began looking over the menu. Now, anyone who goes to Hofbrauhaus knows that you drink beer, so, without question, we ordered one dark Bavarian beer and one light beer. Although the man with us tried to order for my mom and me, we took him up on his suggestion of ordering the crackling pork knuckle, but because we do not eat veal, we decided on Bockwurst [a smoked sausage]. Mom also decided that we needed a side of Bavarian kraut and red cabbage. 

Receiving our food and beer, we did not touch one item on the table until both parties finished taking photos of what lie before us. The man at the table positioned the food and beer on the table with precision before taking each photo. Mom and I on the other hand, were not so particular, but instead, snapped a few photos and began to dig in. 

I never imagined myself liking a pork knuckle, but the moment I tasted it, I was in Heaven. Moist and tender, it provided an incredible taste once it hit my pallet. The red cabbage provided the small bit of sweetest needed and the bockwurst was everything I knew it would be -- flavorful and filling. 

Now, to the most important part, the beer. I have never drank that much beer in my life. A full liter, I found myself enjoying my beer far more than I should have. Having never been a dark beer fan, this beer was different...and I liked it. Of course, I had fully planned to stop after one liter, but the kind gentleman with us  ordered he and his wife another beer, as well as my mom and I. Splitting it between the two of us, I ultimately drank 1.5 liters of dark Bavarian beer. Needless to say, I was feeling quite happy by the end of the night. 

Spending four hours inside Hofbrauhaus, the couple, my mother and I carried on great conversation, talking about where we come from, our reasons for traveling, so on and so forth. Before leaving, a young man, Antony, approached our table. Greeting us with a smile, he raised his beer glass to provide cheers to each of us at the table. The man sitting with us informed him of my marital status -- a single, 27-year-old female who he believed to be "beautiful" and searching for a mate. 

I literally laughed out loud at his attempts to set me up, finding it humorous that even on the other side of the world, people continue in their attempts to find me a date. Coming over to me, Antony shook my hand and said that he agreed with the man, calling me beautiful, but reminding me that he was "a nice guy" and would never try to impose on an American like myself. 

Incredibly friendly, he invited me to a festival that occurs during the Lenten season. Although I cannot remember the name of the festival, it is much like Oktoberfest, but not many tourists can be found in attendance. Never once did he ask where I was staying [I was fully prepared to provide him with a different hotel...I don't tell people where I am staying for safety reasons], but instead, encouraged me to attend the festival as he would enjoy my company.

Thanking him for the invitation, I told him I would think about it. If I would have had more time in Munich, I would have gone as I have heard it is a wonderful festival, full of people drinking, singing, and dancing. However, due to time constraints, I was unable to attend. In a crowd of thousands, I doubt I would have spotted Antony anyways; however, I must say, I was quite flattered that he asked. Who would have thought...I get asked out in a country on the other side of the world!

Difficult Day in Dachau

We knew the time spent in Dachau would not be one that would provide us with a sense of happiness nor excitement. Instead, it would be an eye-opening experience -- a time of reflection.

Keith, our tour guide, was Irish. He was an archeologist with a strong interest in Third Reich history and all things Holocaust related. Short in stature, most of us towered over him; however, his knowledge of what occurred at Dachau was leaps and bounds higher than any of us. 

Arriving at the Dachau train station, we were informed that prisoners arrived at the same exact station more than 75 years ago. We waited for the bus to take us to the camp. Keith informed us that some tours prefer to walk because after the prisoners arrived through the station, they were made to walk 40 minutes to the camp. Throughout their walk, villagers were made by the Nazi's to come out of their homes, hurl food and other items at the prisoners, as well as insults. For fear that they may be pulled into the line if their insults were not harsh enough, villagers spewed hatred at those who passed by. 

At the entrance of the camp, Keith provided a short bit of history regarding the rise of Hitler and the Nazi party, as well as how Dachau came to be. A camp solely for male prisoners, many who were political enemies in the beginning, it was made to house only 6,000. By the time of liberation in 1945, more than 30,000 men could be found in the camp. Also, Dachau was never meant to become an extermination camp. It was only in the years of the Final Solution [1942 - 1945] that the gas chamber and crematorium became of use. 

Standing on the same brick road that the commander walked on to enter the camp, we slowly made our way through the iron gate that read, "Arbeit Macht Frei," which means, "Work Makes One Free." To say it was chilling to step through this gate is an understatement. So many lives passed through here; however, for many, it was a one-way trip. 

Entering the camp, you see a large, massive area where roll call took place. Surrounded by barracks, every building was white and\or gray. Told that the guard towers were inaccessible to visitors, Keith reminded us that the only reason was because it was meant to experience the camp through the eyes of a prisoner, not a guard. It is to discourage anyone who may enjoy or exhibit feelings of power over another...it made sense. As he spoke, I asked if any survivor had been on his tour. Answering that he had not, he did say that he once met a Hungarian man who had survived four camps during the war. His mother and sister were immediately taken to the gas chamber and he was examined by Dr. Josef Mengle himself. I immediately felt tears well up in my eyes. Having read about this infamous doctor of death, I knew of the experiments he performed, and the charismatic ways in which he portrayed himself. 

Our journey through the camp led us through the museum area, providing us with information about the Weimar Republic and the time from World War I to World War II, the rise of Nazism and Hitler himself, Nazi propaganda, and the beginnings of what we know as The Holocaust. In each room, Keith provided vivid detail of the occurrences, including the check-in, the dehumanization of the prisoners as they were made to shower and change into the blue and white work clothing, as well as the fear that possessed most prisoners upon entering some of these rooms. Many men would enter the shower area to see other men hanging with their hands and arms strung up [behind their backs]. A form of torture, these men could be heard screaming out in pain as their shoulders dislocated and the suffocation process began to occur. Guards would splash cold water on them, or slap them if they showed signs of passing out...it was an image one cannot fathom. 

Shown a whipping post, prisoners were made to lie across the wooden plank and endure the beatings of not only a guard, but a soderkommando [a fellow prisoner who received special treatment for aiding guards in various ways: disposing of bodies, ashes, herding prisoners to the showers, etc... They met the same fate as many of their fellow inmates eventually]. A prisoner was made to count each blow and if they slurred their words or miscounted, the process would start from the beginning. Sometimes, the prisoner received up to 50 blows. 

With each room we entered, the feeling of hope grew lighter and lighter for me. Entering the barracks, we saw wooden bunks stacked three high. Although some had a ladder attached, prisoners were made to crawl over each other in order to get to their bunks. Ladders later became a luxury item and were not found on each set of bunks. What we learned is that as the prisoners grew more tired and lifeless, their abilities to make it to the bathroom grew more slim.  You can image the outcome for those on the lower bunks. 

Having seen the life of a prisoner through the camp, we entered the last phase of the tour -- the gas chamber and crematorium. Finding ourselves on what was called "The Death Ditch," Keith reminded us that prisoners were never allowed on this strip of land. Many committed suicide by stepping onto the area, knowing they would be shot. However, on liberation day, thousands could be seen standing along this strip of land, cheering and smiling. 

Passing four religious memorials: Catholic, Protestant, Jewish, and Russian, we walked along a gravel pathway to a large, red, brick building, complete with a tall, daunting chimney. Informing us that he would wait outside for us, we entered the building, retracing the steps of those who would never leave Dachau.

First, we were met with the disinfecting room, complete with white walls and a long pipe along the ceiling. Next, we stood inside a large changing room where prisoners were made to disrobe. Our steps took us then into a large waiting room. This room sent chills as I could only image the fear that so many felt standing in this room, waiting for their fate. Next, the word "Brausebad" greeted us [It means "shower"]. Stepping inside, I looked up to see "shower heads" and a coldness grew over me. What these people must have felt...I can never imagine. The bodies that lay motionless after 15-20 minutes of struggle and pain. Leaving the chamber, we made our way into a large crematorium where oven doors stood open.

Leaving the building, I could not control my emotions. My mom walked ahead of me and went straight to a bench...she couldn't handle it. I found myself walking towards a small memorial with a menorah standing tall. A large, grassy area made up of ashes, complete with a cement marker, read, "Grave of Thousands Unknown." I broke down and wept as I stood before the final resting place of so many. 

At the end of our tour, Keith reminded us that it was not up to him to determine how we should think or feel, but instead, it was up to us to take what we had learned and seen and form our own conclusions. 

You read about the Holocaust in textbooks and watch it in movies, but neither can truly depict the horrors of war until you step inside a concentration camp. Human dignity and life was lost because of the power of one man. We can never image what these people really went through, but, I believe, it is our responsibility and duty as humans to visit and understand such places. Not only to make sure it never happens again, but to see the horrors of what one human can do to another. A statue stands outside the gas chamber at Dachau that translates roughly to something like "Remember those who died, warn the ones still living."

The Hills Are Alive in Salzburg

The train ride to Salzburg took two hours. However, those two hours flew by while staring out the window, looking at the backdrop that Germany provides, the closer you get to Salzburg. The beautiful Alps, complete with snow-covered peaks, found me in complete awe of their beauty.

Our tour guide, Alun, provided our small group with interesting information, preparing us for our day in Salzburg. Not only the home of the famous The Sound of Music, but also the home of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, Salzburg was the most unique small town I've ever visited. Passing by one of Austria's large lakes, Alun informed us that homes in this area of Bavaria run close to 400-500,000 euros simply because of their location. Yeah...one can only wish to own a home with the Alps as its backdrop.

Arriving in Salzburg, Alun led us on a 1.5 city tour before letting us go on our own for 3.5 hours. Outside the train station, the buildings did not look baroque like we were expecting. instead, they looked quite modern. Informing us that the reasoning behind this was due to the U.S. bombing Salzburg during WWII. Once the war was over and once Austria received its independence, it was necessary to rebuild quickly, hence, the modern looking buildings.

Our first stop found us at the Mirabell Gardens. Yes, a small part of me grew excited at the fact that we were standing in the same spots where Julie Andrews sang and danced with the Von Trapp children in The Sound of Music. Not only were the gardens beautiful in themselves, but the popularity made them all the more exciting.  In fact, two women from Spain, in our group, grew extremely giddy as Alun talked more about the movie. Yeah, I LIKE the movie, not LOVE it.

Moving on, we found ourselves in front of Mozart's museum and the famous Doppler house. This is the same Doppler that we know as The Doppler effect...a famous physicist. Although I enjoy Mozart's music, I opted not to spend the 8 euros to tour the inside. 

Now, here's where it gets good. Coming to a small shop, we must have looked like hungry puppies because inside the window setting was a chocolate cake that looked mouthwatering. It is called Sachertorte. Covered in chocolate frosting, inside lies a sponge cake and apricot filling layer. I must admit, I have yet to try it but will shortly as I am now back in the hotel and managed to buy two pieces of this famous cake. Apparently, the recipe is a country secret...go figure.

Crossing a bridge over the Salzburg river, both sides of the bridge were covered in padlocks, each with confessions of love written on them. Although a unique "thing" to do, Salzburg isn't the only city to do this...try Paris as well. Over the bridge, we walked further, reaching Mozart's birthplace, which is now a museum. Again, the option to pay 7.5 euros didn't tickle my fancy. The man was a child prodigy no doubt, and I have immense respect for him and his music, but I knew I wanted to spend my time doing other things in the city. 

On the same street, visitors were surrounded by shops, bistros, cafes, street music, and cobblestone streets. Being transported by into medieval times, it was the epitome of a true European village. 

Leading us into a large square, Alun showed us the large Catholic Church, St. Peter's. giving us a bit of history, the church was built in 774 and was damaged during the WWII bombing, but only the dome was damaged. Making a mental note to revisit, we kept walking towards the last stop, the might Fortress. Standing at its base, the fortress overlooking Salzburg was breathtaking.

Deciding to take the lift up to the top for 11 euros, we stepped out to see a 360 degree view of Salzburg. Cameras were snapping pictures left and right and my video camera was rolling, capturing the city below and the mountains above. One photo looked as if God was shining his beautiful rays of sunshine down upon the city. 

Unbelievable in size, the fortress stretched far and wide, leaving visitors multiple options of hidden nooks and crannies to stumble upon. No corner of the fortress provided a bad photo of the city below. 

Making our way down the steep, gravel pathway, I wondered if we'd ever hit street level. I was also playing guide to my mom as her shoes were prone to slipping on the loose gravel beneath us. 

By the time we hit bottom, it was agreed that it was time for lunch. Stopping at a small cafe, we had grilled cheese sandwiches and a deliciously good apple streudel...with cream. I could have eaten the whole thing, but realizing I shouldn't, I decided to share. 

Stopping in a few shops, we bought handmade ornaments, postcards, and of course, that yummy looking cake. I mean, come on, it was a must-have!!

Quickly making our way back to the Mirabell Gardens, I was planning to run through them, singing "Do, Re, Me" but considering there were several people sitting around and who would have looked at me like I was crazy, I opted to just pose in front of the Pegasus Fountain with may arms extended much like Maria did in The Sound of Music. 

Leaving Salzburg, I felt like I had just stepped back in time. Like I had experienced Europe in a whole new way. It is cities like Salzburg that remind travelers of the beauty of Europe. Often, we can get caught up in the fast-paced lifestyle of bigger cities like Munich, but Salzburg, it brought about a more slower-paced, laid-back lifestyle...perfect for transporting yourself back into history.

Much of which we will do tomorrow when we visit Dachau...trust me, I've already packed the tissues. It's going to be an emotionally exhausting day.

First Day in Munich

Landing in Munich at 9:30 this morning, to say that we were tired is an understatement. Of course, who can actually get a decent night's sleep on a plane? Not me. Not only did I have a woman kicking the back of my seat the full 7 hour plane ride, but attempting to position your head with the pillow provided...yeah, I might as well try my attempts as a contortionist.

Arriving at our hotel, we were unable to check in, so we checked our luggage and went on our way, facing Munich head on. Grateful for the sunshine, we stepped outside to be greeted with the sun on our faces and a warmth that I was hoping for on this trip. Walking past the Hauptbahnhof (the main train station), we pushed forward to the city center.

A little miffed that my good Fossil sunglasses decided to lose a screw, I walked the streets squinting and attempting to guide us there via two maps. Entering the main city center, we were surrounded by shops (many of which were laughable at the possibility of entering because of its high priced content) and caves, each offering authentic German delicacies. However, no scene was quite as impressive as the Viktualienmarkt. A large, open market, visitors were surrounded by food (sausages, breads, pastries, vegetables the size of my head, and cheeses), flowers that emitted the most fragrant aromas and bloomed brightly, as well as teas and hand-made novelty items for tourists and locals.

Housed in one large area, we walked away from the market and stepped inside St. Peter's Church. A 14th-century church, it's beauty shown through the massive altar at the front of the church. I don't know about anyone else, but visiting churches in one of my favorite things to do when in another country. To some, once you've seen one, you've seen them all, but I highly disagree. I have seen some amazing churches, none of which resemble another. Each has its own atmosphere, reasoning and history. St. Peter's provided a beautiful setting for those wishing to spend some time in playful solace.

At this point, our stomachs were grumbling. The last thing we had eaten was a few slices of deli meat, part of a blueberry muffin, and a roll, which was our "breakfast" on the plane. Speaking of the plane, although the loss of sleep was unfortunate, the ability to enjoy a glass of white wine, receive a handy-dandy personal kit complete with an eye mask, toothbrush and toothpaste, socks, earbuds, and ear plugs, Air Berlin did well in keeping its fliers content and happy. It also helped that come 6 a.m., a warm towel was placed in my hands :)

Since out stomachs were making themselves known...loudly, we stumbled upon the Hard Rock Cafe. For those of you who know, I collect HRC shirts from each place I visit. Happy to be sitting down, we split a plate of their infamous nachos before moving on to our next stop. Of course, I had to buy myself a t-shirt since that's sort of my thing.

Noticing that Hofbrauhaus sat next to the HRC, we opted to revisit the area in the next few days. After all, you simply cannot visit Munich without going to Hofbrauhaus, sitting down and throwing back one of their infamous boot beers.

Back in the room at 4 p.m., our intentions were not to fall asleep, but unfortunately, jet lag had its own agenda. Waking up at 7:30 p.m. There was no doubt that we were in for the night...after all, we have a full day ahead tomorrow -- we're going to the land of the Sound of Music and Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart -- Salzburg, Austria!!!

Critics: Don't Listen to Them

A good friend of mine is in the starting leg of an amazing 140 + day, world trip. Bitten by the travel bug, much like me, she is far more experienced and "worldly" than I at this point in our lives. Having studied abroad while in college, and currently studying in New Zealand, she has traveled far and wide, and yet, her hunger for travel continues, much like mine.

In a recent blog article, she wrote about her critics and those who find her passion for travel to be shall we say, an excuse to get away from the troubles of life. In response to her blog article, I wrote her with full intentions of showing my support for her passion.

You see, the two of us became friends because a dear and close friend of mine was dating her. Once I discovered her intrigue for traveling, we clicked instantly. Ever since, we have remained close and often talk about our future travels and how we will one day run into each other while gallivanting around the world. 

I would like to share with you what I wrote, in hopes that, for any of you who wish to travel but have many of those same critics, that you will not give up hope, but instead, travel anywhere and everywhere.

"Casey - I have been told that I am irresponsible and immature for wanting to spend my money on traveling -- that I'm not taking the "responsible" route and money for an apartment, etc...

I find it deplorable that people would stomp on my dreams simply because they cannot bring themselves to enjoy the wonders of this world. Traveling is not meant to wait until we are old and retired...it is meant for all ages, at any stage in life.

Of course, my philosophy is "do it while you're young." Thankfully, I have the support of my family and close friends who witness my irresistible urge to travel and actually support me in this.

Never listen to those critics...they'll never understand or appreciate the art of traveling and its ability to mold us travelers into well-rounded people who 1) don't take for granted the earth in which we live 2) can see life for more than its pithy arguments and differences, but instead, find the similarities that bond us together, and 3) love to experience life outside the normal routine of every day life.

You and I were given a gift, the gift of wanderlust. To travel the world is to learn, live and most of all, love.

I know my mini-rant here may sound cheesy, but it's true. Not many people are given this gift, and to those who have it, it will never be a gift that is taking for granted. It will never be satisfied.

One thing I've always told myself, since I've been bitten by the travel bug, is when I die, I want to look back and say that I stepped outside my comfort zone, that I faced the world and all its beauty, that I experienced a world that despite all of its differences, is a world of hope and adventure.

No country or culture is meant to be learned through a textbook, instead, it was meant for us to see and experience first-hand.

Safe travels my beautiful friend.

Travel buddies for life -- Nicole"

For any of you who follow my blog and would like to follow hers, visit http://gallivantology.blogspot.com/

I promise, you won't be disappointed :)

So Embarrassed....

I am so incredibly embarrassed. I have never let myself go this long without blogging. Life sometimes takes unexpected turns, creating less and less time for "pleasurable" activites and "reflective" activities like blogging.

In 23 days, I will be leaving for 2 1/2 weeks to Germany and Poland. To say I am excited is an understatement. The chance to see even more of this wide and amazing world, I'm forever grateful and humbled.  However, as excited as I am, there are still so many things left to do before I leave...like book my tours, buy all the necessary items needed when traveling, plan my days, etc...

My devotion to planning may be extreme to some, but the way I look at it, if I'm spending the money and the time, I'm going to make sure every single moment of every day is filled with doing something and seeing something I may never get the chance to see again.

I will be lucky enough to take my iPad with me on this trip, and fully intend on blogging while I am away.  I will keep all of you up-to-date on my trip and look forward to sharing my amazing vacation with all of you.

Thank you for being so loyal and understanding during my time away. I hope to provide you with a look inside another part of the world here very soon!!!!